Bites

The Age

Tuesday October 31, 2006

NECIA WILDEN, RICHARD CORNISH,

In praise of cheeses

"Capretta" is a generic term for an aged goat's milk cheese produced in Italy. This particular capretta is pretty damn special. Handmade in a small dairy in the hills and valleys around Torino in Piemonte, it's quite different from other aged goat's cheeses. The flavour is not as "goaty" as some, leaning more to the sweet, rounded, nutty end of the spectrum. My "Cheese of the Month", it's the best I've tried since real roquefort finally landed here. Also impressive is another cheese new to Australia from the same dairy. Handmade from three different milks - cow's, goat's and sheep's - "robiola" is a fresh, rich and creamy cheese, with a hint of complexity and lactic sweetness not often present in fresh cheeses.

Try it with hazelnuts and honey, or with sweet macerated strawberries. -- NECIA WILDEN

Stockists of capretta ($99.50/kg) and robiola ($90/kg) from La Credenza dei Vecchi Sapori include Leo's, Kew; Pete 'n' Rosies, Prahran Market; Richmond Hill Cafe & Larder; and The Wine and Cheese Providore, Docklands.

Get your freekeh on

The story goes that an ancient town in the Middle East was threatened by invasion. The inhabitants harvested their unripe wheat then suddenly the stalks caught fire. They rubbed off the ash and discovered the nutty, smoky taste of freekeh - which means "the rubbed one" in Aramaic. Cooked like rice, freekeh can be used as a side dish, mixed with minced lamb and pine nuts for kibbeh (rissoles) or cooked with onion to make a stuffing for roast quail or squab. This roasted freekeh is made in South Australia by Greenwheat Freekeh, which also exports it back to its home in the Middle East. -- RICHARD CORNISH

Stockists of Greenwheat Freekeh include Mt Eliza Deli and selected Coles stores. A 400g packet costs $4.80 (RRP).

Here's the tip: get a hamper

In Melbourne, spring has never really arrived until the language starts taking on an equine flavour. Suddenly, even non-sporting pursuits such as shopping for clothes are no longer just shopping, they're "backing a winner". In the spirit of this harmless fun, it's good to keep track of all the horsey doovers being packed into boxes and hampers ready for your race-day pleasure. Two of our favourites spotted in town recently are the "Front Runner" and "Best in Field" hampers from Replete Providore in Hawthorn; and the Spring Racing Carnival lunchboxes from the cafe at Vue de monde (who obviously think word-plays should be reined in). At Replete, you choose from goodies such as rolled rare roast porterhouse with hot English mayo and shredded vegetables; spinach and soft herb roulade with ricotta and parmesan; and "Victoria's best chocolate fudge brownie". At Cafe Vue, you get your own private box packed with a piccolo of Piper-Heidsieck champagne (chilled, for drinking in the limo on the way to the track), seafood appetiser, a Wagyu beef sandwich, cheese and a dainty little dessert. Giddy-up. -- NECIA WILDEN

Replete Providore hampers start from $24 a head, phone 9818 4448; Vue de monde lunchbox, $55, phone 9691 3888.

© 2006 The Age

Back to News Index | Back to Home